Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) 10%

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   Niacinamide is an essential water-soluble vitamin B3, which is not synthesized in the body, meaning we have to eat it to receive its benefits. Additionally, the vitamin has been incorporated into skincare products since our bodies don't produce it on their own.

 

Topical niacinamide has the following effects¹ (Fig. 1) :

　

 1. Reinforces skin barrier function

　Niacinamide (2%) increase epidermal production of skin barrier lipids (e.g., ceramides) and also skin barrier layer proteins and the precursors (keratin, filaggrin, involucrin), leading to the observed enhancement of skin barrier function as determined by reduced TWEL (transepidermal water loss).

   The ceramides in the skin keep the lipid layer and epidermal barrier intact which ensures that we retain moisture and suppleness within the skin² (Fig. 2, 3).

 

2. Promotes a brighter, younger-looking appearance

   Skin pigmentation results in part from the transfer of melanized melanosomes synthesized by melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes.

   Niacinamide can inhibit melanosome transfer and induce skin lightening.

   Topical application of Niacinamide (4% or 5%) resulted in a dose-dependent and reversible reduction in hyperpigmented lesions^3,4,5,6 (Fig. 4, 5).

 

3. Visibly reduces pore size and sebum excretion

　 A component of poor facial skin texture is enlarged pores. As topical Niacinamide improved texture, a possible mechanism could be reduction in sebum excretion, which may translate into

   smaller pore size. Dysregulation of sebum can result in excessively oily skin and subsequently more acne lesions. Having a good balance of oil and moisture within acne-prone skin is an important component for controlling the acne. Niacinamide suppresses sebaceous lipogenesis of human sebocytes via activating hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor (HCA2)⁷ (Fig. 6).

   Niacinamide (2%) inhibits sebum production, specifically affecting the content of triglycerides and fatty acids. This may contribute to the observed reduction in skin pore size and thus improved skin texture (a component of texture being enlarged pores)⁸ (Fig.7, Table 1,2,3).

 

4. Prevents acne and acne scars

  　Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and improves acne. Niacinamide can reduce the overall inflammatory response, resulting in fewer pimples, and has been shown to effectively treat mild-to-moderate non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne as well as hormonal acne due to its exfoliating and antibacterial properties. In addition, Niacinamide Mitigates Inflammation Induced by Environmental Stressors in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes⁹.

 　In Shahmoradi, et al. study, they evaluated possibly more potent 5% Niacinamide gel instead of usual 4% concentration and in contrast to the previous studied they compared this compound with 2% clindamycin gel instead of 1% clindamycin gel. 5% Niacinamide gel is as effective as 2% clindamycin gel for treatment of mild to moderate acne vulgaris. No side effect was observed during the treatment¹⁰ (Table 4,5).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Koji Sophora Japonica Flower Extract Ferment

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  This active, patented by Ciracle, is Sophora Japonica Flower extract that is fermented with Aspergillus. As an antimicrobial agent, it inhibits the growth of acne bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acne.

 

　It was also effective in improving acne in a clinical trial on human subjects for acne treatment.

 

 

 

 

 

Rhus Javanica Extract

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  Rhus Javanica Extract is derived from the fruit of the Rhus javanica tree, also known as the nutgall tree, which is native to parts of Asia, including Korea, China, and Japan. This extract has been used traditionally in various forms of medicine and is known for its potential health benefits.

 

1. Antioxidant Properties: It helps neutralize free radicals, reducing cellular damage and slowing down the aging process.

 

2. Anti-inflammatory Effects: The extract can help suppress inflammatory responses, which may alleviate symptoms of various inflammatory conditions.

 

3. Antimicrobial Activity: It has properties that can inhibit the growth of certain pathogens, contributing to the prevention of infections.

 

4. Pore tightening: It is rich in tannins, which are effective in tightening temporarily enlarged pores.

 

 

 

 

Castanea Crenata (Chestnut) Shell Extract

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　Castanea Crenata (Chestnut) Shell Extract is derived from the shell of the chestnut tree, native to East Asia, including Korea, Japan, and China. This extract is known for its multiple skin benefits, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin-protective, and moisturizing properties. Additionally, it is particularly effective in pore tightening, a benefit largely attributed to its high content of tannins.

 

1. Antioxidant Properties: The extract is rich in polyphenols, which help neutralize free radicals, reducing oxidative stress and preventing skin aging.

 

2. Anti-inflammatory Effects: It helps soothe the skin by suppressing inflammatory responses, making it beneficial for conditions like acne.

 

3. Skin Protection and Improvement: It strengthens the skin barrier, protecting against external irritants and improving skin tone and texture.

 

4. Moisturizing Effect: The extract helps retain moisture in the skin, keeping it soft and hydrated, and preventing dryness-related damage.

 

 

Pore Tightening and the Role of Tannins:

　One of the standout features of Castanea Crenata Shell Extract is its high tannin content. Tannins are natural astringents, meaning they have the ability to tighten and

constrict tissues. When applied to the skin, tannins help to contract the tissues around the pores, making them appear smaller and less noticeable.

　This pore-tightening effect is particularly beneficial for controlling excess sebum production, which can lead to enlarged pores. Additionally, tannins enhance skin elasticity, further contributing to the appearance of tighter, smoother, and more even-toned skin.

 

　For these reasons, Castanea Crenata (Chestnut) Shell Extract is commonly used in skincare products that focus on pore tightening and skin elasticity improvement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Ehrhardt Proksch, et al. Topical use of dexpanthenol: a 70th anniversary article. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2017;28(8):766-773

2. Wieslawa stozkowska et al. Investigation of some topical formulations containing Dexpanthenol. Acta. Poloniae Pharmaceutica-Drug Research. 2004;61(6):433-437

3. SebastianBjörklund, et al. The effects of polar excipients transcutol and dexpanthenol on molecular mobility, permeability, and electrical impedance of the skin barrier. J Colloid Interface Sci. 2016;479:207–20

4. Johannes Wohlrab and Daniela Kreft. Niacinamide – Mechanisms of Action and Its Topical Use in Dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27:311–315

5. O. Tanno, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;143:524-531

6. Jasmine C Hollinger, et al. Natural Ingredients Effective in the Management of Hyperpigmentation? A Systematic Review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2018;11(2):28-37

7. Juan Pablo Castanedo-Cazares, et al. Topical niacinamide 4% and desonide 0.05% for treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2013; 6: 29–36

8. T. Hakozaki, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology. 2002;147(1):20-30

9. Amanda Greatens, et al. Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible. Experimental Dermatology. 2005:14: 498–508

10. Arnold Markovics, et al. Nicotinic acid suppresses sebaceous lipogenesis of human sebocytes via activating hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 2 (HCA2). J Cellular Molecular Medi. 2019; 23(9):6203-6214