Panthenol (pro-Vitamin B5)

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 Panthenol (also called pantothenol) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), and is thus a provitamin B5. Panthenol enhances skin barrier repair through reducing TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) and inflammation, and improving skin hydration (Fig. 1, 2, 3).

 

  This active also leads to increased mobility of the stratum corneum (SC) molecular components (i.e., both lipids and proteins). It can be used to retain the high skin permeability of a hydrated membrane at reduced hydration conditions, which otherwise would lead to reduced flux due to dehydration induced molecular rigidity of the SC barrier components. This finding is explained by retained molecular mobility of SC at dehydrating conditions in the presence of panthenol (Fig. 4).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Niacinamide

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　Niacinamide is an essential water-soluble vitamin B3, which is not synthesized in the body, meaning we have to eat it to receive its benefits. Additionally, the vitamin has been incorporated into skincare products since our bodies don't produce it on their own.

　

Topical niacinamide has the following effects² (Fig. 5) :

 

1. Reinforces skin barrier function

　Niacinamide (2%) increase epidermal producrion of skin barrier lipids (e.g., ceramides) and also skin barrier layer proteins and the precursors (keratin, filaggrin, involucrin), leading to the observed enchancement of skin barrier function as determined by reduced TWEL (transepidermal water loss).

　The ceramides in the skin keep the lipid layer and epidermal barrier intact which ensures that we retain moisture and suppleness within the skin³ (Fig. 6, 7).

 

2. Promotes a brighter, younger-looking appearance

　Skin pigmentation results in part from the transfer of melanized melanosomes synthesized by melanocytes to neighboring keratinocytes.

　Niacinamide can inhibit melanosome transfer and induce skin lightening.

 

3. Visibly reduces pore size and sebum excretion

　A component of poor facial skin texture is enlarged pores. As topical Niacinamide improved texture, a possible mechanism could be reduction in sebum excretion, which may translate into smaller pore size.

　Dysregulation of sebum can result in excessively oily skin and subsequently more acne lesions. Having a good balance of oil and moisture within acne-prone skin is an important component for controlling the acne. Niacinamide suppresses sebaceous

lipogenesis of human sebocytes via activating hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 2 (HCA2)⁴.

　Niacinamide (2%) inhibits sebum production, specifically affecting the content of triglycerides and fatty acids. This may contribute to the observed reduction in skin pore size and thus improved skin texture (a component of texture being enlarged pores)⁵.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Licochalcone A

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 A derivative of the phenol chalconoid, found in and extracted from the roots of Glycyrrhiza inflata, with potential anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and anticancer activities⁶.

 

1. Anti-inflammation (Table 1.)

 LA demonstrates anti-inflammatory activity via interaction with MAPK, NF-κB, NLRP3, and Nrf2 signaling in the acute lung, kidney, and liver injury (acute inflammation) and Arthritis, asthma and atopic dermatitis (chronic inflammation).

 

2. anticancer activities

　Associated with epithelial carcinoma and mesenchymal sarcoma cells.

　Cancers mediated by epithelial carcinoma cells include hepatocellular, glioma, breast, gastric, colon, lung, cervical, ovarian, bladder, and oral squamous cell.

　Melanoma is primary cancer caused by mesenchymal sarcoma cells (Fig. 8).

LA has anti-cancer effects of LA on Inducing Apoptosis and Inhibiting Proliferation Cancer Cells.

　Apoptosis is a form of programmed cell death that occurs in multicellular organisms. LA induces apoptosis in different cancers via multiple pathways, including P13-Akt-mTOR, VEGFR2, c-Met, PLCγ1, MAPT, JNK/p38, and ERK1/2, along with a combination of regulatory targets. Absolutely, LA induces apoptosis in B16 melanoma cells on the skin⁷ (Fig. 9).

　Unlimited proliferation is a crucial feature of cancer cells. The pharmacological ability to inhibit proliferation is a crucial aspect of the anticancer effects of LA. For LA, inhibition of cancer cell proliferation reflects blocking the cell cycle at different transition phases via regulating specific mRNAs and protein levels, such as Wee1, P21, Cyclins, MDM2, Survivin, and CDK1⁸.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract

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　Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, a deciduous tree native to subtropical regions, contains tannins and proanthocyanidins.

　Some people apply witch hazel directly to the skin for itching, pain and swelling (inflammation), eyeinflammation, skin injury, mucous membrane inflammation, vaginal dryness after menopause, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, bruises, insect bites, minor burns, acne, sensitive scalp, and other skin irritations.

 

  The extract has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps skin with mild irritation or redness and helps decrease any inflammation. It also loosens the dead skin cells, dirt or dust associated with it and takes away any moisture tangled dead bacteria as well.

It also has antioxidant and whitening properties.

 

 

 

 

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

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　Portulaca oleracea is a succulent plant whose extract has antioxidant properties, that helps heal wounds, calm irritated skin, hydrate, and also provides anti-aging effects to the skin.

Dermatologists say that it is loaded with more Omega fatty acids than fish oil and more vitamins than our healthiest veggies.

　Deriving from the succulent Portulaca oleracea, purslane extract provides serious antioxidant benefits. The effects it has on the skin—it can help heal wounds, calm irritated skin, and hydrate, and it has strong anti-aging properties—make it an ingredient that dermatologists say has many benefits.

 

 Flavones, which constitute a significant component of Portulaca oleracea, are known for their excellent antioxidant properties. They help mitigate oxidative stress, contributing to anti-aging effects.

　

  Additionally, these compounds offer anti-inflammatory benefits that promote wound healing and provide skin-cleansing properties. They also calm skin irritation and allergic reactions due to their soothing effects.

　

　With their high content of natural moisturizing factors, they deliver exceptional moisturizing benefits and are widely used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

 

 

 

1. Wieslawa stozkowska et al. Investigation of some topical formulations containing Dexpanthenol. Acta. Poloniae Pharmaceutica-Drug Research. 2004;61(6):433-437

2. Johannes Wohlrab and Daniela Kreft. Niacinamide – Mechanisms of Action and Its Topical Use in Dermatology. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014;27:311–315.

3. O. Tanno, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;143:524-531.

4. Arnold Markovics, et al. Nicotinic acid suppresses sebaceous lipogenesis of human sebocytes via activating hydroxycarboxylic acid receptor 2 (HCA2). J Cellular Molecular Medi. 2019. 23(9):6203-6214.

5. Peter Elsner and Howard I. Maibach. Cosmeceuticals and active cosmetics. Drug versus Cosmetics. 2nd Edition. 2005. p.422-439

6. Jiang, J., et al. Licochalcone A Inhibiting Proliferation of Bladder Cancer T24 Cells by Inducing Reactive Oxygen Species Production. Biomed. Mater Eng. 2014. 24 (1), 1019–1025.

7. Chen, R. et al. Licochalcone A Inhibits Melanoma Cell Growth and Migration via Arresting Cell Cycle and Suppressing Akt Phosphorylation. Front. Pharmacol. 2022. 13-2002 /doi.org/10.3389/fphar.2022.878776

8. Wang, J.et al. Licochalcone A from Licorice Root, an Inhibitor of Human Hepatoma Cell Growth via Induction of Cell Apoptosis and Cell Cycle Arrest. Food Chem. Toxicol. 2018. 120, 407–417.