D-Panthenol 5%

     Panthenol (also called pantothenol) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), and is thus a provitamin of B5. In organisms, it is quickly oxidized to pantothenic acid. It is a viscous transparent liquid at room temperature. Panthenol is used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products as a moisturizer and to improve wound healing¹.

     Dermatological effects of the topical use of dexpanthenol include increased fibroblast proliferation and accelerated re-epithelialization in wound healing. Furthermore, it acts as a topical protectant, moisturizer, and has demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties².

     D-panthenol enhances skin barrier repair through reducing TEWL (TransEpidermal Water Loss) and inflammation, and improving skin hydration³ (Figure 1).

     Evaluation of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) showed that formulations supplemented with 1.0% and 5.0% of panthenol improved the skin barrier function, resulting in a significant decrease (p < 0.001) in TEWL values 15 and 30 days after daily application of these formulations. This result showed that to have significant long-term effects on skin barrier function, the formulation must be supplemented with higher concentrations of panthenol, such as 1.0% and 5.0%. In addition, the concentration of panthenol also influenced the improvement of skin hydration since 1.0% of panthenol was enough to show efficacy in the reduction of TEWL⁴ (Figure 2).

Figure 1. Temporal variations of the inflammatory reaction evoked by UV radiation in guinea pigs following application of hydrogel without and dexpanthenol in comparison with controls.

Figure 2. Transepidermal water loss before (baseline values) and 15 and 30 weeks after the application of the formulations: vehicle (V), V+0.5%, V+1.0%, and V+5.0% of panthenol and control site (ANOVA test, n=20 subjects, mean±SEM). *Significantly different from the base values and control site (p<0.001).

CICA Complex (Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid)

     Asiaticoside in C. asiatica has wound curative ability by increasing angiogenesis and collagen formation. The asiaticoside enhances the stretching strength of the newly formed skin and promotes the wound’s healing. It also prevents the inflammatory process, which may increase the capillary permeability and provoke hypertrophy in abrasions⁵.

In the laboratory, antioxidant levels were observed on one animal to study the effects of asiaticoside, and the antioxidants played a key role in the healing of injuries⁶ (Figure 3).

     Madecassic Acid is one of the main biological active components in the popular skin ingredient, Centella Asiatica, also known as Tiger Grass.
Free radical damage can often result in the skin looking dull, with signs of hyperpigmentation and showing some premature aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles. Madecassic Acid protects the skin from these free radical damage. Madecassic Acid can help soothe the skin, meaning any signs of inflammation, redness, dryness or other skin conditions such as acne, rosacea and sensitivity.

     Asiatic acid has anti-aging potential and helps in healing wounds. Healing breakouts and promoting the generation of new skin cells is a one-stop shop for people who are wanting to slow down premature aging and speed up the healing of acne.

Figure 3. Area (mm2) of guinea pig wounds at 0, 7 and 10 days after topical treatment with different doses of asiaticoside (0.05, 0.1 and 0.2%). Values are mean9S.E. for eight different observations. * PB0.01 as compared to the same day control

Gently apply a proper amount of the cream on the face, avoiding the eye and mouth area, after cleansing and toning.